Today I want to take you to Mendoza's Peotonal--the cafe-lined pedestrian mall near the Plaza Independencia; to sample the Alfajores at Havanna. Havanna is Argentina's oldest and best-known producer of alfajores, the shortbread-like sandwich cookie filled with gooey, sweet dulce de leche. At the Havanna cafe, visitors spend long afternoon hours sipping cortitos con leche with a seltzer on the side, smoking, laughing, talking politics--and eating the company's famed cookies. The cafe tables are lined up in rows on the wide sidewalk, shaded by trees and blooming red umbrellas that look like poppies. Like a trip to the glamorous era of Fellini films, guests sit in director chairs with 'HAVANNA' written across the canvas back.