From Argentina With Love

Pionono de Crema con Palmitos--Hearts of Palm and Crème Fraîche Pionono

Americans are masters of 'small talk'.  The weather, the game, politics...quipped to both strangers and friends alike in grocery store aisles or pre-school pick-up.  This superficial conversation allows us to connect with our fellow man and yet remain uncommitted.  In the U.S., 'What do you do?' is a conversation starter, whereas in Argentina, it is considered rude. What to talk about, then, when such topics as work and politics are verboten?

In Argentina, small talk is all about food.

At a family gathering of a close Argentinean friend, I found myself engaged in a conversation about edibles with another guest.  A wonderful topic of chit-chat if there ever was one--avoiding serious topics of conversation to savor something central to everyday life.  Argentineans could talk for hours on the subject of  their favorite foods. Best to save those heavy topics of conversation for when you know someone better!

I had brought with me a tuna and red pepper filled pionono, and the topic turned to pionono and what could be put inside.  The hostess' mother was especially passionate about hearts of palm.  Her favorite recipe called for mayonnaise and chives to be added into the mix.  I thought that sounded delicious, and soon after, started to experiment.

Straight mayo seemed old-fashioned to me--this filling begged to be modernized a little. Something more flavorful than mayonnaise was needed, but sour cream would have overpowered the delicate flavor of the hearts of palm.  Crème Fraîche was the perfect ingredient to add in--fresh yet tangy, but not too strong, alongside a little mayo to make it spread easier.  Homemade mayo is best used here, the lemon juice in it adds a welcome tang.  If you are using store-bought, simply stir in a little lemon juice. 

The perfected version of this pionono was a hit--a neighbor said it reminded her of her mom's artichoke dip served in a bread bowl (remember those!?) and my mom devoured hers.  Guillermo couldn't say anything--not even chat about the weather--his mouth was too full.

Pionono

Pionono (Jelly Roll)

makes one Pionono, serves 8-10 when sliced

The basic recipe for pionono is a classic--the filling can be altered as desired--savory or sweet.

5 eggs

5 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon honey

5 tablespoons flour

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. In a stand mixer, put the eggs, sugar, and honey, and beat on high speed for 8 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, line a rimmed cookie sheet with parchment paper and grease with butter or spray generously with cooking spray.

After 8 minutes, you should have a fluffy batter. Add the flour in all at once and beat for one minute more, until incorporated. Pour the batter onto the cookie sheet and spread gently with a spatula (you don't want to de-fluff the batter!) Make an even layer covering the cookie sheet. Bake in the oven for 6 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare your filling.

Lay a linen (not terry-cloth) towel on the counter. Sprinkle it lightly with sugar. Lift the parchment paper off of the cookie sheet, and lay the pionono face down on the towel, paper-side up. Carefully peel the corner of the paper off, and continue, careful not to rip the pionono, until the paper has been removed. Carefully spread the filling on the pionono in an even layer covering the entire pionono.  (Fill as below or as desired.)  Roll carefully from right to left (the short side of the rectangle) creating a roulade type roll and slice. Remove the end pieces. Arrange on a plate to serve.

Relleno de Palmitos

Hearts of Palm Filling

one 14 oz. can of hearts of palm (I used Reese brand)

7.5 oz. Crème Fraîche, (about one cup) store-bought or homemade (I used Bellwether Farms brand)

3 tablespoons mayonnaise (homemade or with a squeeze of lemon juice if store-bought)

1/4 cup fresh chives

1/2 teaspoon salt

 

Drain the can of hearts of palm and chop into fine pieces.  Wash the chives and chop them into fine pieces.  In a medium bowl, combine the hearts of palm, mayonnaise, chives, and salt.  Stir well to combine.  If needed, add in a couple tablespoons of milk to thin the mixture to make it more spreadable.  

Spread the mixture across the pionono as directed above, roll, slice and serve.

Candied Squash--Zapallo en Almíbar

A couple of weeks ago, there was a recipe request from Amy for Zapallo en Almíbar that sparked some interesting conversation on the From Argentina With Love facebook page. Katie of the wonderful blog Seashells and Sunflowers provided lots of great information.

Zapallo en Almíbar is a typical Argentinean treat--cubed firm squash jarred in sweet syrup.  It has a crunchy texture outside and a soft texture inside.  Traditionally, Katie explained, Zapallo en Almíbar is prepared using cal viva, or calcium oxide, which gives it that crunchy/smooth texture.  

I did some research on calcium oxide, the caustic solution more commonly known as quicklime. It's combustible and is used in producing cement and whitewash.  It can be used as a weapon and has a phosphorus glow when reacting.  That illumination was used in theatrical productions prior to electricity, hence the term 'limelight'. I decided against ingestion.  

Its cousin, calcium hydroxide (aka slaked lime), is used in tortilla-making during the process called 'nixtamalization'.  Dried corn kernels are soaked in a mixture of slaked lime and water, softening the kernels so that the hulls can be removed and used to make the masa for corn tortillas, tamales, etc. Slaked lime is available at Home Depot, and is used in making plaster, in hair-removal products like Nair (cue 'Who Wears Short Shorts' music now) and in petroleum refining. This could be an alternative to cal viva, but still, I thought I'd skip it.

Katie suggested another alternative, that of using 190-proof alcohol, known as Everclear here in the U.S., to give the squash the desired crunchy texture. She also posted a recipe, which in its wonderful Argentinean fashion, lacks measurements and very specific instructions.

Here's what we ended up doing:  We used Rum.  We didn't get that crunchy texture, but the results were nonetheless delicious. But the crunchy texture is kind of the point of this treat, so I'd still like to try a version using slaked lime and one using Everclear, just to see the difference. I'm on the case, then.  

For now, enjoy this homespun version of Zapallo en Almíbar.  Another little side note: We taste-tested two versions against eachother.  One was a jar of Zapallo en Almíbar we transported back from a roadside vendor in Bowen, and the other our homemade version.  The Bowen version was made by Marta Zacchigna de Molina, but the label provides no ingredient information, so I'm not sure of the type of squash she used, or whether she used cal viva or alcohol.  See the photos below.  I am amazed at the color difference, though I'm not sure the type of squash or the process used in the Bowense version.

Zapallo en Almíbar

Candied Squash

Serve with a tray of meats, cheeses and olives in the late afternoon as a snack, as part of a pre-dinner appetizer, or as a dessert course with fruit, nuts and cheeses.

3 cups firm squash, such as butternut (you can also use kabocha, acorn or hubbard)

600 ML (about 3 cups) light rum

1 teaspoon vanilla

4 cups water 

4 cups sugar

Peel and seed the squash.  Cut into medium-large cubes, about 1 1/2 inch in size.  In a medium bowl, combine the squash and the rum.  Let soak for 24 hours, stirring occasionally to make sure all the cubes are covered.

Drain the squash, discarding the rum (unless you want to make squashtinis, hee hee).  In a medium non-reactive stock pot, heat the water and the sugar over medium-high heat.  Stir frequntly, and when the sugar is completely dissolved, add in the squash and the vanilla.  Heat to a boil, and then reduce heat but maintain the mixture at a simmer until the squash becomes translucent, about an hour.

Remove the mixture from the heat and let cool completely.  Place the squash in a jar and cover with the syrup and a lid.  Refrigerate for up to 2 weeks, or alternatively, can for storage following the instructions with your canning kit.

Pionono de Atun y Morrones--Pionono with Tuna and Roasted Red Peppers

 

If there were ever a quality that would make a food lovable, for me that quality would be versatility. Take the humble Pionono--a handful of basic ingredients (above) blended together to create a spongy cake that has just about as many filling options as you can dream up.

In the mood for something sweet?  Spread your Pionono with Dulce de Leche, or maybe Nutella and crumbled nuts.  Or spread it with a soft gelato, then roll and freeze to make an ice cream cake.  Looking for a brunch option?  Whipped cream and strawberry-filled Pionono make a great  brunch dish.

In the mood for something savory? Fill your Pionono like a sandwich--with layers of ham or salami or turkey, provolone cheese, sliced olives, roasted red peppers and hard boiled egg.  Or whipped cream cheese with Roquefort crumbles mixed in.  Or like this version, it can be filled with tuna salad spiked with fresh herbs and roasted red peppers.

The humble Pionono, a staple in Argentina's kitchens, makes a great party appetizer or something different to bring to a potluck.  And last week we had it paired with a hearty quinoa salad--it was the perfect small plate to go with a grain, both playing an equal part as main dishes on the plate.

What are your favorite filling  ideas?

Pionono

Pionono (Jelly Roll)

5 eggs

5 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon honey

5 tablespoons flour

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. In a stand mixer, put the eggs,sugar, and honey, and beat on high speed for 8 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, line a rimmed cookie sheet with parchment paper and grease with butter or spray with cooking spray.

After 8 minutes, you should have a fluffy batter. Add the flour in all at once and beat for one minute more, until incorporated. Pour the batter onto the cookie sheet and spread gently with a spatula (you don't want to de-fluff the batter!) Make an even layer covering the cookie sheet. Place in the oven for 6 minutes.

Wet a cotton (not terry-cloth) towel and put it flat on the counter. Sprinkle it lightly with sugar. Lift the parchment paper off of the cookie sheet, and lay the pionono face down on the wet towel, paper-side up. Carefully peel the corner of the paper off, and continue, careful not to rip the pionono, until the paper has been removed. Fill with filling as below or as desired by spreading the chosen filling evenly across the pionono.   Roll carefully (too long on the wet towel is not good) and slice. Arrange on a plate to serve.

Relleno de Atun con Morrones

Tuna and Roasted Red Pepper Filling

Salmon would also be a nice option here, just substitute the 2 cans of tuna for 2 cans of skinless, boneless salmon. 

2 cans tuna, drained

2 tablespoons (or more, to taste) mayonnaise

1 teaspoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley (tarragon or basil would also be nice)

1 egg, hard-boiled, peeled and chopped (optional)

2 roasted red peppers, chopped

Place the tuna in a medium mixing bowl, and flake with a fork.  Stir in the mayonnaise and mix well until combined.  Add in the lemon juice, and then fold in the parsley, hard-boiled egg, and roasted peppers.  Spread the mixture across the pionono as described above, before rolling and slicing.

 

Empanadas de Humitas--Corn and Piquillo Pepper Empanadas

Humitas are one of my favorite fillings for empanadas--and if you like corn, it will be one of yours, too. It's also vegetarian (if you make the dough yourself) a welcome variety from Argentina's meat-heavy menus.

Humitas is really an adaptation of indigenous cooking at its most basic--ears of corn, grated fine, peppers roasted over a flame, and onion, chopped and cooked and seasoned with the world's oldest condiment, salt. The dough, and the concept of filling that dough, came over with the Spanish. From those basic ingredients--commodities like flour, salt, and lard--the dough for empanadas was created. Stick the whole thing in a blazing hot clay oven and you'll get the idea of what gauchos were eating. And another testament to the endless creativity born out of necessity that Argentineans have a knack for.

Today's conveniences make this recipe only slightly easier--the old-fashioned way, though a lot of work, is made up for in flavor and quality. As for the labor, which can be daunting in our busy modern times, I found it easier to spread the process out over 2 days. Grating ear after ear of corn on a box grater is tiring, but totally worthwhile. The filling and baking process took place the second day, a faster and less laborious process. If you are making the dough from scratch, that can be done the day before, too.

Try as I might, I haven't yet found a shortcut way to make humitas without compromising taste. But there's a satisfaction in making something that takes more work than pressing buttons on the microwave, a sweetness to biting into something made by hand that took some time, effort, and love to create. Take a look at the other humitas recipes on this blog--Francis Mallmann's Humitas and Humitas en Chala, and join the conversation on twitter and facebook (group page, From Argentina With Love) where we answer questions and have giveaways!

Empanadas de Humitas

Corn and Piquillo Pepper Empanadas

This recipe is yet another version of the other humitas recipes I've made. The major differences are the omission of milk, the addition of cornstarch, and the longer cooking time--all for thickening so the filliing doesn't ooze out of the empanada. I made a dozen empanadas, and then froze the remainder of the filling for another day so I can skip the labor-intensive humita-making, but this recipe easily makes two dozen. Dough made from scratch can last a few days refrigerated, so feel free to space out the process of this recipe over a few days. Also, the filling itself can be adapted to be vegan, gluten, and dairy free.

10 ears of fresh corn

1 medium-sized onion

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 cup (57 grams) cornstarch

about six roasted piquillo peppers or three roasted red bell peppers

one teaspoon salt, or more to taste

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste

1 cup (80 grams) shredded mozzarella cheese

12 tapas or discos for empanadas, either store-bought or homemade

1 egg, beaten

Shuck the corn, removing all hulls and silk, and rinse the ears under cold water. Then, using the large holes of a box grater, grate the kernels into a large bowl. Rotate the ear around, grating the ear of corn, until all the kernels have been grated off. Slide the flat edge of a butter knife down the edge of the ear of corn all around to release any additional starchy juices into the bowl.

Peel and finely chop the onion, and heat the oil in a medium-sized non-reactive sauce pan to medium high heat. Add the onion and saute until translucent, but not browned, lowering the heat if needed. Add in the grated corn and stir to incorporate.

Bring the corn mixture to a boil (it will just sort of bubble up slowly) and continue to boil, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Add in the cornstarch and stir to incorporate, and continue to cook at a simmer until the mixture thickens, about a half hour. Meanwhile, dice the peppers. Stir the peppers into the corn mixture, then add in the salt, crushed red pepper, and grated Mozzarella, and stir to incorporate.

Remove the mixture from heat and let cool completely, first on the stovetop and then in the refrigerator--this helps a lot in getting the mixture to thicken and make a good spoonful of filling. When the humitas have cooled completely, you're ready to fill the empanadas.

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Lightly dust a baking sheet with flour.

Lay out the tapas four at a time on a clean countertop, lightly dusted with flour. Put out a small glass of water for sealing the empanadas, along with a small glass with one beaten egg, for brushing over the empanadas before baking.

Place a heaping tablespoon of the humitas filling in the center of the empanada shell.

Moisten the edge on the top half of the shell with a little water on your finger. Fold the bottom half of the dough up until the edges meet and seal with your fingers by pressing down. The empanada should have a half-moon shape.

Use the palms of the hands to pack the filling firmly in the center. Next, fold the edges with the Repulgue: (Video clip) you can also use this repulgue option: (another clip). Using your fingertip, fold one corner of the empanada over, pressing down firmly. Go to the edge again and repeat, pressing firmly each time. Move around the edge of the empanada and you'll get a spiral pattern. You can also use a fork-seal, instead. Place the finished empanadas on on the baking sheet, and then gently put a few holes in the top of the empanada to release the heat and prevent the empanada filling from popping out.

Paint the top of each sealed empanada with the beaten egg so that when they bake, they have a shiny, golden shell. Put the empanadas in to bake for about 15 minutes--they should be golden brown on top.

Take out and let cool slightly before serving, and eat very carefully while hot!

Empanadas de Vigilia--Camaron Y Espinaca--Lenten Empanadas--Shrimp and Spinach

 

Empanadas de Vigilia are popular in Argentina around Easter--the time when those who observe Lent 'keep vigil' and abstain from the things they enjoy eating and drinking  the rest of the year.  Believers omit these things as a sacrifice, a nod to Christ's sacrifice of his life by crucifixion for our mortal sins--albiet a much smaller one.

Many people take part in the traditional Friday night 'fish-fry' meals held at their local churches here in the US, while in Argentina, cuaresma is a time to lighten up from the usual beef-heavy fare with more vegetarian and seafood oriented dishes.  Personally, I don't mind having an alternative to the meat--I prefer all the variety and flavor that goes along with being vegetarian, or close to it. 

Meatless or almost meatless varieties of empanadas are a delight--in the past I've published versions of my recipes for homemade Tuna and Red Pepper empanadas, Roquefort and Walnut empanadas, empanadas Margaritas (tomato, basil, mozzerella), and Butternut Squash and Goat Cheese empanadas.  Today's version is no exception to my favorite rule of Argentinean cooking:  simple, and made with the things you already have on hand.  Seriously, if you can think of it, you can stuff an empanada with it.  How's that as a cooking rule?

Today I used La Salteña's  'Redonditas' for these empanadas.   The label also reads 'Tapas para Copetin', in case you want to find them them near you.  They're just like the large (4-inch) version of the hojaldre (puff pastry) tapas I usually use, only these are tiny, appetizer-sized (3-inch) tapas.  They come in packs of 24 instead of 12--and since they're bite-sized, these would make the perfect snack, bite before a meal, or canape at an Argentinean-themed party.  I'm guessing you wouldn't even make it all the way around the room with a tray of these!  But then again, maybe it will be like the miraculous loaves and fishes, and you won't run out.  Springtime is a season of miracles, after all!

So whether you celebrate Lent,  are just opting for less meat and more variety in your diet, or need a little something to bring along to your next party--give these delicious seafood and veg empanadas a try!  I promise, you won't even know you're sacrificing a thing!

Facebook: Rebecca Caro or the From  Argentina With Love Group page.  Twitter: RebeccaCaro Email: [email protected]

 

Empanadas de Vigilia--Camaron Y Espinaca

Lenten Empanadas--Shrimp and Spinach

These would be great with chopped tomato or roasted red pepper added in, too.

Makes one dozen regular-sized empanadas, or 24 copetin-sized ones

2 tablespoons butter

1 medium onion, diced very small

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup cooked, deveined shrimp, tails removed

3 cups fresh baby spinach leaves

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt (or to taste)

1 egg, separated

1 egg, hard-boiled and peeled

1 tablespoon flour

2 tablespoons milk

1 cup mozzarella cheese, shredded

12 pre-made or homemade tapas or discos for empanadas, or 24 little ones--redonditas

1 egg, beaten (for egg wash)

Flour, for dusting.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.  Grease a baking sheet, or use a non-stick spray.  Hard-boil one egg, if you haven't already.

Heat the butter in a skillet over medium heat.  Add the chopped onion and the garlic to the skillet, and let cook until translucent, about 4 minutes.  Meanwhile, chop the shrimp into small pieces and add to the skillet.  Add the 3 cups of spinach leaves, and cook until wilted, stirring to incorporate.  Add in 1 egg yolk (reserve the white for brushing over the empanadas before baking), the milk, and the flour, and stir together.  Stir in the shredded mozzarella cheese.  You will have a melty cheese, shrimp and spinach mixture.

Peel the hard-boiled egg if you haven't already.  Lay out the tapas six at a time on a clean counter-top, lightly dusted with flour.  Put out a small glass of water for sealing the empanadas.  Place a heaping teaspoon (more if you're using the larger tapas) of the spinach and shrimp filling in the center of the empanada shell.  Add in a small slice of hard-boiled egg on top of the spinach mixture.

Moisten the edge on the top half of the shell with a little water on your finger. Fold the bottom half of the dough up until the edges meet and seal with your fingers by pressing down or pressing together. The empanada should have a half-moon shape.

Use the palms of the hands to pack the filling firmly in the center.  Next, fold the edges with the Repulgue: (Video clip) using your fingertip, fold one corner of the empanada over, pressing down firmly.  Go to the edge again and repeat, pressing firmly each time. Move around the edge of the empanada and you'll get a spiral pattern. You can also use a fork-seal, instead. 

Paint the top of each sealed empanada with the beaten egg so that when they bake, they have a shiny, golden shell. Place the finished empanadas on the baking sheets. Put the empanadas in to bake for 12 to 15 minutes-they should be golden brown on top. Take out and let cool slightly before serving, and eat very carefully while hot!