When I started this blog years ago, the foods of Argentina were foreign to me--I blindly tested a recipe, often without much of an idea of what the end result was supposed to taste like. After all, I was making the dishes in an attempt to replicate the flavors coming from my suegra's kitchen to make comforting and familiar meals for my new husband. The recipes were pieced together from my mother-in-law's emails and my husband's descriptions.
Now, though I'm happy to take the occasional shortcut of canned corn or pre-made dough to get dinner on the table before 9:00pm on a school night (or because real ears of corn are out of season) I've become familiar enough with the recipes of my husband's querida patria that I can make the whole thing from scratch in a reasonable time frame.
One of the things I'm happiest to have mastered is this dough. It's a simple and quick dough for tapas for empanadas or for tartas with any filling, (like Pascualina, Chard or Butternut Squash) in this case Tarta de Choclo. The recipe was inspired by Laylita's Empanada Dough for Baking. What I originally liked about it was the use of butter rather than the lard found in most traditional Argentine dough recipes; for two reasons: as an American, I found it hard at first to get over my fear of lard (which is long gone, now) and also grasa de ternera aka beef lard or tallow can be mighty hard to come by. In Denver, I only know of one small family-owned butcher that carries it, and it's an hour from where I live.
Now I've made this dough so often I feel like it's my own. I've perfected my rolling technique so that in just over an hour I can crank out 3 dozen tapas for empanadas and store them in the freezer, or use them right away. It takes some practice learning to handle the dough, but the recipe is just what a good baked pastry crust should be--flaky when baked and easy to fill and seal beforehand.
The Tarta de Choclo recipe here is more or less like the filling for the Empanadas de Humita but with the time-saving trick of using frozen corn kernels rather than grating the cob, as corn is out of season.
Masa Basica para Empanadas y Tartas Con Manteca
Basic Empanada and Tarta Dough Using Butter
adapted from Laylita’s Recipes
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 ½ sticks unsalted butter, cold and cut into pieces
1 egg
5-7 tablespoons water
Put the flour and salt in the bowl of the food processor and pulse until combined. Add the butter and process until the dough and flour have combined and look like rough sand. Add egg and water, one tablespoon at a time and process until a clumpy dough forms. After the 5th tablespoon of water has been added, process until a ball has formed. If the dough is too dry and won't unite, add the additional water. If it is too wet and sticky, add a bit of flour. Remove the dough from the bowl of the food processor. Form a disc, wrap it in plastic, and chill in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes.
Rolling it out:
by hand:
For Empanadas: Roll out the dough into a thin sheet and cut out round disc shapes for empanadas (use round molds or a small plate). Follow the directions below to fill.
For Tartas: Divide the dough in half and form two discs. Roll into two shells that fit the size of your tarta dish. Use one for the bottom, add preferred filling, and use on the top. Seal the edges together using a repulgue.
Use immediately or store in the refrigerator (2 days) or freezer (3 months) to use later. If freezing, the dough can be set on wax paper on the bottom and on the top on a baking sheet and flash-frozen for 15 minutes, then removed from the cookie sheet and stored in a large ziploc bag and stored flat in the freezer for up to 3 months.
using a pasta linda or pasta maker:
For Empanadas: Set up your pasta maker as you would to roll out pasta. (Mine is an attachment for a Kitchen-Aid mixer.) Roll out a small portion of the dough (a ball about the size of your fist) until it is thin enough to fit through the machine's largest setting. Run it through the pasta maker twice, so that a long, uniform strip of dough has been formed. Change the setting to 2, and run it through again. Set the setting to 3 and run it through again. Now set it on the counter and begin cutting, probably 3 or 4 tapas can be made from each strip with a large round cutter.
Remove the cut discs of dough to a sheet of wax paper and arrange in a line. Fold the top half of the wax paper over the top of the tapas. Repeat with the remaining dough.
Cut the paper between each tapa with scissors, additional tapas can be stacked in between so that each tapa is seprated by wax paper. Place the stack in a tupperware or ziplock bag. They can be used within two days in the refrigerator, or frozen in batches of one dozen in the freezer and used within 3 months.
for Tartas: Set up your pasta maker as you would to roll out pasta. (Mine is an attachment for a Kitchen-Aid mixer.) Roll out a small portion of the dough (a ball about the size of your fist) until it is thin enough to fit through the machine's largest setting. Run it through the pasta maker twice, so that a long, uniform strip of dough has been formed. Change the setting to 2, and run it through again. Set the setting to 3 and run it through again.
Once you have two or three strips of dough, place them together on the counter, overlapping at the seams about 1/2 an inch. Gently press the seams together to create one large piece of dough, then cut it to the size of your tarta dish. Repeat with the remaining dough to make the top.
Tarta de Choclo--Corn Tart
3 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil
1 large white onion, diced
1 large (32 oz) bag frozen corn kernels, or 5-6 cups fresh kernels cut from the cob
¼ cup corn starch
½ cup whipping cream
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup mozzarella cheese, shredded
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper
½ cup roasted red peppers, diced
Defrost the corn kernels to room temperature and drain. In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the chopped onion and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add in the corn kernels and heat through, 5-7 minutes. Mix the corn starch into the whipping cream and add the mixture into the corn and onion mixture, stirring to combine. Add in the salt, cheese, and crushed red pepper and taste. Adjust seasoning as needed. Stir until slightly thickened and cheese has melted. Blend 1/3 of the mixture using a blender, food processor or hand blender. Return the pureed portion to the remaining corn mixture. Fold in the roasted red peppers. Let cool enough to be handled.
Preheat your oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
For making Empanadas:
Lay out the tapas four at a time on a clean countertop, lightly dusted with flour. Put out a small glass of water for sealing the empanadas, along with a small glass with one beaten egg, for brushing over the empanadas before baking.Place a heaping tablespoon of the corn filling in the center of the empanada shell. Moisten the edge on the top half of the shell with a little water on your finger. Fold the bottom half of the dough up until the edges meet and seal with your fingers by pressing down. The empanada should have a half-moon shape.
Use the palms of the hands to pack the filling firmly in the center. Next, fold the edges by twisting the edge like so: Using your fingertip, fold one corner of the empanada over, pressing down firmly. Go to the edge again and repeat, pressing firmly each time. Move around the edge of the empanada and you'll get a spiral pattern. You can also use a fork-seal, instead. Place the finished empanadas on the baking sheet, and then gently put a few holes in the top of the empanada with a toothpick to release the heat and prevent the empanada filling from popping out. Paint the top of each sealed empanada with the beaten egg so that when they bake, they have a shiny, golden shell. Put the empanadas in to bake for about 15 minutes or until golden brown on top. Take out and let cool slightly before serving, and eat very carefully while hot!
For making Tartas: Line the tarta dish with one tarta disc. Pour the cooled corn filling into the shell. Place another shell on top. Seal with the repulgue method or using a fork pressing around the edges. Cut a few vents round the top. (They can be decorative as desired, if cutting small shapes using cookie cutters, this must be done before the top is placed on.) Put the tarta in the pre-heated oven and bake at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 35 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown.
Recently, I read an article entitled 'Helpful Hints for Successful Parenting'. Among the suggestions: "Share the things you love with your children...Teach him that his environment is filled with things that have meaning to you. As he grows, give him a part in family traditions."
I think this happens naturally, in some ways, as we go about our daily routine. But sometimes, it takes a little effort. Guillermo and I try to give importance to honoring both our cultures, and especially remembering Argentina's special traditions. We want our kids to be proud of both sides of their heritage. But honestly, sometimes it feels like a huge effort even to get dinner on the table. With a new little one in the mix, we are busier than ever. There's always someplace to be and an excuse to skip the special stuff.
This post was supposed to be part of a group post on the wonderful tradition of eating gnocchi in Argentina on the 29th of every month. To be posted yesterday. Alas, spread thin as I am, I was ready to pitch the whole thing and order a pizza. But I also felt obligated to participate, so I started making the gnocchi.
The group that made regional alfajores was about to tackle another ubiquitous Argentinean dish. And post all the lucious photos to Flickr. Alas, again. Five pm, lousy kitchen lighting and 70s goldenrod countertop--with one adorable kid rolling out gnocchi. It may not be food-photography worthy, but it's my life right now.
Right away I had my 'sous chef' jump in, insisting, this time, in his ever-growing desire for independence, that he cut the gnocchi and also be allowed to drop them into the boiling water. Carefully supervised, he got to do both. But as I felt the deadline of this group blog event looming, I tried to shoo him to the table to eat. Newly five, he is small but mighty and he refused.
I mean, he REALLY wanted to make the gnocchi, and took great pleasure in rolling them out. So I gave up. I knew this was a battle I could stand to lose, so I let go of my stress, my need to control the situation and 'get it done'--and enjoyed the moment so much more. I let myself have fun--something I've been a little short on lately. It was a great lesson in being present, in going with the flow, and also in realizing that we have done something to carry on traditions that are important to us. Maybe he doesn't quite understand the meaning behind 'gnocchi day' yet, but he will, in time.
Finally, as the gnocchi were on plates, I found myself upstairs at the changing table instead of the dinner table. I overheard something that made my heart melt. Esteban, said, "Aren't these gnocchi the best things in the WORLD?" And to him, with his ownership of making dinner, they absolutely were. And they really were!
Photos: Top--Esteban rolling the gnocchi at age five. Center--In Argentina with 'Bula' making gnocchi at age four. Bottom two--first gnocchi, at around fifteen months, and rolling them out, in 2008.
The other ladies that joined this group blog post made some sumptuous gnocchi indeed. Many talked about the reason behind the tradition of serving gnocchi on this day. And so around the world, the gnocchi day tradition is being carried on, in all its delectable forms:
Aledys of From Argentina to the Netherlands for Love posted Gnocchi a la Romana
Katie of Seashells and Sunflowers posted Butternut Squash Gnocchi with Walnut Cream Sauce
Ana of Ana Travels posted Arugula Gnocchi with Tomato and Tarragon Vinagrette
Paula of Bee My Chef posted Spinach Gnocchi
Meag of A Domestic Disturbance posted Roasted Beet Malfatti with Creamy Roquefort Sauce
and Mine, which of course is Plain Old Potato Gnocchi, Prepared by a Five Year Old
But seriously,wouldn't you love to sit down to dinner at their tables?
Without further ado, though, here is a tried and true recipe for a simple, traditional potato gnocchi. Even the kids like it.
Receta de Ñoquis del 29
Recipe for 29th-of-the-month Gnocchi
2 lbs. baking potatoes (about 6)
salt
2 eggs
1 cup fresh, good quality ricotta cheese
2-3 cups flour, plus more for dusting
Peel and quarter the potatoes, putting them in a medium stock pot with enough water to cover the potatoes with one inch of water. Add a scant handful of salt. Put the potatoes to boil until they are tender when pierced with a fork , but not mushy. Drain the potatoes.
Put the potatoes through a food mill or potato ricer. In a large bowl, combine the potatoes, eggs, and ricotta, and mix well using your hands or a fork until a consistent dough is formed. Be careful not to overmix.
Add the flour a half cup at a time, mixing each time by hand until there is a soft, pliable dough. The dough should not be sticky, and it should not be hard. If it's too sticky or soft, the gnocchi will be mushy, but if there's too much flour, the gnocchi will be chewy and tough. (This is the challenging part!)
Knead the dough a few times until uniform, and divide the dough in half . Flour a work area, and roll the dough out into a long thin roll about 3/4 inch thick. Cut these tubes of dough into sections about 1 inch long. Meanwhile, bring a stock pot of water to a boil.
There are a variety of ways to 'mark' the gnocchi-all just a style choice, since at this point, they are more or less done. Here are some suggestions: Mark an indentation in the center of each gnocchi with your index finger; or roll over the side of a cheese grater to make patterned indentations; or roll over the backside of a fork, or roll over the center of a wooden gnocchi tool.
At this point, the gnocchi can be frozen laid out on a baking sheet lined with wax paper. After they are frozen, they can be stored in a freezer bag. Frozen gnocchi are just put into the boiling water like the unfrozen ones.
Drop the gnocchi one at a time into the boiling water. They are cooked when they rise to the top. Collect with a slotted spoon and transfer to a plate. Serve with the sauce of your choice. (Some nice choices are walnut Gorgonzola, tomato or white sauce.)
Today in Argentina people from coast to coast are meeting friends and family over plates of gnocchi (or ñoquis, if you're in Argentina) to celebrate one of my most favorite time-honored Argentinean food traditions--the habit of eating gnocchi on the 29th day of each month.
I recently got an email from reader Socorro in Miami, who reminded me that it's been a long while since I wrote about the traditions of this holiday.
While gnocchi came to Argentina along with the influx of Italians who immigrated to their new home in the early 20th century, the tradition of eating this dish is distinctly Argentinean. Newly arrived Italians ate gnocchi on the 29th of each month to honor the saint day of San Pantaleon, a Venetian patron saint who healed the ailing and would only take a simple meal (such as gnocchi) for payment.
Continue reading "Fresh Herb Gnocchi--Ñoquis de Hierbas Frescas" »
If there were ever a quality that would make a food lovable, for me that quality would be versatility. Take the humble Pionono--a handful of basic ingredients (above) blended together to create a spongy cake that has just about as many filling options as you can dream up.
In the mood for something sweet? Spread your Pionono with Dulce de Leche, or maybe Nutella and crumbled nuts. Or spread it with a soft gelato, then roll and freeze to make an ice cream cake. Looking for a brunch option? Whipped cream and strawberry-filled Pionono make a great brunch dish.
In the mood for something savory? Fill your Pionono like a sandwich--with layers of ham or salami or turkey, provolone cheese, sliced olives, roasted red peppers and hard boiled egg. Or whipped cream cheese with Roquefort crumbles mixed in. Or like this version, it can be filled with tuna salad spiked with fresh herbs and roasted red peppers.
The humble Pionono, a staple in Argentina's kitchens, makes a great party appetizer or something different to bring to a potluck. And last week we had it paired with a hearty quinoa salad--it was the perfect small plate to go with a grain, both playing an equal part as main dishes on the plate.
What are your favorite filling ideas?
Pionono
Pionono (Jelly Roll)
5 eggs
5 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon honey
5 tablespoons flour
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. In a stand mixer, put the eggs,sugar, and honey, and beat on high speed for 8 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, line a rimmed cookie sheet with parchment paper and grease with butter or spray with cooking spray.
After 8 minutes, you should have a fluffy batter. Add the flour in all at once and beat for one minute more, until incorporated. Pour the batter onto the cookie sheet and spread gently with a spatula (you don't want to de-fluff the batter!) Make an even layer covering the cookie sheet. Place in the oven for 6 minutes.
Wet a cotton (not terry-cloth) towel and put it flat on the counter. Sprinkle it lightly with sugar. Lift the parchment paper off of the cookie sheet, and lay the pionono face down on the wet towel, paper-side up. Carefully peel the corner of the paper off, and continue, careful not to rip the pionono, until the paper has been removed. Fill with filling as below or as desired by spreading the chosen filling evenly across the pionono. Roll carefully (too long on the wet towel is not good) and slice. Arrange on a plate to serve.
Relleno de Atun con Morrones
Tuna and Roasted Red Pepper Filling
Salmon would also be a nice option here, just substitute the 2 cans of tuna for 2 cans of skinless, boneless salmon.
2 cans tuna, drained
2 tablespoons (or more, to taste) mayonnaise
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley (tarragon or basil would also be nice)
1 egg, hard-boiled, peeled and chopped (optional)
2 roasted red peppers, chopped
Place the tuna in a medium mixing bowl, and flake with a fork. Stir in the mayonnaise and mix well until combined. Add in the lemon juice, and then fold in the parsley, hard-boiled egg, and roasted peppers. Spread the mixture across the pionono as described above, before rolling and slicing.
