From Argentina With Love

Linzer Torte (Pasta Frola) with Almonds--Pasta Frola con Almendras

Back in 2008, when this blog was a baby idea of sharing recipes from our life in the U.S. and Argentina, I wrote about Pasta Frola.  Many of the recipes I made came from my mother-in-law, Florencia's, kitchen as I settled into life as a newlywed.

Pasta Frola is a classic not-too-sweet dessert.  At my in-laws' house, it's always around, cut into small rectangles and neatly packed between layers of waxed paper in a tin; ready to be taken on the road for noshing alongside a late-day matecito, eaten for breakfast or even as a midnight snack.

While every family has their own adaptation, the classic version found in homes and bakeries in Argentina, Uruguay and Paraguay has a filling made from membrillo, or quince jelly, but it can also be made with sweet potato--dulce de batata, or even with dulce de leche.  Some dough recipes call for a little lemon zest, cinnamon, and Pasta Frola's famous cousin, Linzer Torte, calls for walnuts and plum or raspberry jam.  Written versions of Linzer Torte date from the 1650s, and somewhere along the centuries, what with all the cross pollinations and royal intermarrying of the day, the Linzer Torte likely found its way to Italy, where it was further adapted and dubbed Pasta Frolla.  The version enjoyed in Argentina today was no doubt another of the culinary treasures brought along from the old country, as immigrants settled into their new lives in a far-away land.

In my last post about the iconic pastry, I referenced the quote "La vida no es una Pasta Frola," immortalized by the artist known as Quino in his famed comic strip, Mafalda.  Loosely translated, it means "Life is not a piece of cake".  Truly, life is not easy for anyone--we all have our ups, our downs, and our in-betweens, where we just slog through, busy and tired.   Most of the time, many of us forget to be present.  We forget to enjoy life, appreciate what we have, and especially to take time to love and embrace the people around us in our families and community.

Another way of saying this comes from another quote: "Life is uncertain, eat dessert first!"  With all the slings and arrows life hurls at us every day, not to mention the unexpected life-changing things we all face at some point--it's so important to just pause.  Enjoy something and someone every day.  Let those you love know you love them.  And sit down and break bread together--share and foster culture and community.  Repeat. Make something simple and homemade--like this Pasta Frola.  Life may not be a piece of cake, but it certainly can be delicious!

Pasta Frola with Almonds--Pasta Frola con Almendras

I used almond flour alongside regular flour in this recipe.  While I used Bob's Mill brand, you can easily make your own almond flour by grinding blanched almonds in a clean coffee grinder or  food processor.  The advantage to this would be having a lovely, coarser texture to the nuts to give it a nuttier flavor.  You can also vary the type of nut to include hazelnut or walnut.  If quince jelly is not available, quince paste may be used--simply slice the paste thinly and lay it in a single layer across the bottom crust.

1 cup almond flour

1 1/3 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup sugar

1 egg yolk

about 1 1/2 cups Quince Jelly

 

In a medium bowl, combine the almond flour, flour, baking powder, and salt and whisk to combine.  In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment,  beat the butter and sugar together on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes.  Add the egg yolk and beat for one minute more. 

On low speed, add the flour mixture in all at once and beat until combined.  Divide the dough in half.  Press the first half of the dough into an even layer into a 9-inch tart ring or springform pan.  Press the edges up about 3/4 of an inch. Roll out the other half on a lightly floured baking sheet lined with parchment paper, into a 13-inch round.  Place both in the refrigerator and chill for 30 minutes. 

Spread the quince jelly evenly on the chilled dough in the tart ring.  Then, using a fluted pastry wheel (if you don't have one, use a knife--you won't have the zig-zag edges, but that's ok) cut the chilled round of dough into strips about 1-inch wide.  Arrange the strips across the round tart in a criss-cross (lattice) pattern.  Freeze for 30 minutes. 

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Bake for 40 minutes, rotating halfway through to brown the edges evenly.  Let cool completely before removing the tart ring, and serve in wedges.  The Pasta Frola can keep for three days covered in plastic wrap, but it probably won't last that long!

 

 

Tarta de Ricota--Ricotta Tart

  

I first discovered tarta de ricota at Dün Ken, one of our favorite bakeries in Mendoza.  Since then, I've been working on perfecting my own version at home, and I think I've just about got it down.  

Tarta de Ricota is just what it sounds like--a tart made from ricotta cheese.  It's the Italian cousin of our beloved cheesecake, only without the cream cheese tang.  Like so many recipes, the original has morphed into something unique--different but still delicious, developed by homesick Italian women missing the flavors of the old country.  But that old home fell away with the diaspora--a new home was being built in Argentina.

Argentina's version of the ricotta tart is delicately sweet and mild, smooth and creamy with just a hint of lemon.  (See the recipe notes for possible flavor variations.) It can be served any time of year, but is most often seen on the Easter table.  Ricotta, made from they whey used in cheese-making, was traditionally made in the spring, hence the springtime connection. (At least in the northern hemisphere.)

The origins of this simple pie are ancient--it's been made since pre-Christian times in Italy, during the reign of Constantine the Great. It's rumored that priestesses of Roman goddess Ceres, goddess of fertility and motherhood, mixed ricotta with eggs to celebrate Spring. Swedes enjoy a treat called Ostkaka, an almond-y egg and cheese cake--perhaps a recipe exchange during the time of the Visgoth invasion?  Nuns in a convent in Naples infused their springtime version of ricotta pie with orange blossoms from their garden, and the recipe was later adapted by local bakeries.

From pagan offering to a convent confection symbolizing the Resurrection, from the Easter tables of Naples' rich and famous to modern-day bakeries on the other side of the planet, Tarta de Ricota has had quite a journey, wouldn't you say? Take a bite of history when you make this pie, which is sure to become a tradition of your own!

You may also enjoy Ricotta Pie recipes from Cooking Lessons (a wonderful step-by-step tutorial), Serious Eats, and Foodblogga

 

Tarta de Ricota

 Ricotta Tart 

This is a basic recipe for ricotta tart that can easily be adapted.  It can be flavored with rum or another liqueur, like Grand Marnier, or you can stir in 1/2 cup of golden raisins or golden raisins soaked in liqueur--especially delicious during the holiday season. There are also versions that include finely chopped preserved peaches in syrup, and it would be simple to swap out the lemon zest and juice for orange, or the vanilla for almond extract.  That version would be delicious covered in confectioner's sugar and sliced almonds for a fancy afternoon tea. I've chosen a traditional short-pastry type crust here, the shortbread-style crunch adds a nice texture to the pie.

For the tart shell:

1 1/2 cups flour

1/4 cup sugar

pinch of salt (or more to taste)

1/2 teaspoon lemon zest

1 stick unsalted butter

1 egg, separated

2 tablespoons milk

1 teaspoon vanilla

 Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.  Generously butter and flour a tart pan with a removeable bottom.  

In a food processor, combine the flour, sugar, salt, lemon zest, and butter and process until well combined and the mix resembles a coarse sand.  Add in the egg yolk, reserving the white.  Add in the vanilla and the milk, and process until combined and there is a coarse dough.  To make the dough by hand, combine the ingredients as described below using a hand-held pastry blender.

Dump the dough into the prepared pan, and using your fingers, press around the edges and bottom of the pan.  Then using the bottom of a cup, press the bottom into an even layer.  Bake for 15 minutes. Remove, and then brush with the reserved egg white.  Return to the oven for another 15 minutes.  

Meanwhile, prepare the filling.

For the filling:

1 1/2 cups fresh whole milk ricotta cheese

1/2 cup sugar

1 egg

1 tablespoon rum

1/2 teaspooon vanilla

1/4 cup heavy whipping cream

1 tablespoon lemon juice

zest from 1 lemon

confectioner's sugar, as needed, to decorate the top

In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients and using a hand-held mixer, blend at medium speed until smooth.

Remove the crust from the oven.  Pour the ricotta mixture into the tart pan until 2/3 of the way full, and then carefully place in the oven.  Bake for  45-60 minutes, or until the center is set and the filling is light golden, but not brown.

Let cool completely, then refrigerate until cold. Sift confectioner's sugar over the top, using a stencil design if desired.

Transfer to a cake plate and serve, cut in wedges.

 

Heart-shaped Alfajores for Valentine's Day--Alfajores en forma de Corazon por el Dia de San Valentin

Valentine's Day--you can love it or hate it.  We've all gone through Valentine's Days alone or heart-broken, Valentine's Day days head-over-heels, Valentine's Days spent with girlfriends on the couch watching a weeper or out to dinner ignoring the holiday.  Even earlier, most of us suffered the unforgettable heady yet awkward exchange of Valentines in class. (The one when you're hoping that your crush returns your feelings as you slip your Strawberry Shortcake/StarWars card into the paper bag decorated in class).

In our household, Valentine's Day is always a mixed bag.  One year it was celebrated with a heart-shaped diamond necklace (before marriage and kids), the next it was forgotten altogether.  It's been quasi-celebrated with a quick dinner out while leaving the (then) baby with a sitter, and spent apart while one of us was on a business trip.  And it has also been celebrated with kids--not an over-done, romantic dinner, mind you, but a fun, family celebration, demonstrating as we do in a thousand small ways daily, our love for each other.  We light candles and use little Valentine's napkins, and eat these for dessert.  Esteban loves any occasion to celebrate!

This heart-shaped alfajor is just perfect for that type of casual dinner, whether your sweetheart is 4 or 40 (or 4 months old, as it were).  

I made these to share this weekend with friends for dinner (actually, in a romantic and uncharacteristic moment, the men did the assembly.  It was made with a jar of homemade dulce de leche from our hosts, another American/Argentinean couple, the van Halls.) Esteban's pre-school teachers are also getting a couple, in a decorative bag tied with a red bow.  

So whether you are celebrating the day of 'Amor y Amistad' in grand style, or at home with the family, we wish you the best the day can bring!

Alfajores

This recipe for alfajores is adapted from the book, Argentina Cooks! by Shirley Lomax Brooks

1 3/4 cups flour

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup sugar

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 pound butter (1 stick) at room temperature

1 teaspoon lemon zest (optional)

4 egg yolks, lightly beaten

1 egg, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 recipe for dulce de leche (or one jar of it)

1 cup grated and sweetened coconut (optional)

Combine flour, salt, sugar and baking soda in a bowl. Cut the butter in with two knives, then mix by hand until well incorporated. Work in the lemon zest and then mix in the egg yolks, egg and vanilla. (Alternatively, you can do this in a food processor, fitted with the dough blade.) The dough will be soft and slightly sticky.  Shape the dough into 2 balls, wrap in plastic, and chill for 2 hours. 

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. On a floured work surface, roll out each ball of dough to a thickness of 1/4 inch.  ( I used lots of extra flour to get the dough to be pliable, not too sticky, and easy to cut.) Cut into 2-inch rounds (or use a heart-shaped cutter) and transfer to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake for 12-15 minutes or until done. The cookies will be dry but not brown. 

When the cookies are cool, spread a generous spoonful of dulce de leche in one cookie and top it with another. Press together gently and smooth any squished-out dulce de leche with a pastry knife, or add a bit of extra so the  coconut will have a good smooth surface to adhere to. Roll the seam of each sandwiched cookie in shredded coconut. (I used Bob's Red Mill shredded unsweetened coconut, purchased from Whole Foods.)

 

Candied Squash--Zapallo en Almíbar

A couple of weeks ago, there was a recipe request from Amy for Zapallo en Almíbar that sparked some interesting conversation on the From Argentina With Love facebook page. Katie of the wonderful blog Seashells and Sunflowers provided lots of great information.

Zapallo en Almíbar is a typical Argentinean treat--cubed firm squash jarred in sweet syrup.  It has a crunchy texture outside and a soft texture inside.  Traditionally, Katie explained, Zapallo en Almíbar is prepared using cal viva, or calcium oxide, which gives it that crunchy/smooth texture.  

I did some research on calcium oxide, the caustic solution more commonly known as quicklime. It's combustible and is used in producing cement and whitewash.  It can be used as a weapon and has a phosphorus glow when reacting.  That illumination was used in theatrical productions prior to electricity, hence the term 'limelight'. I decided against ingestion.  

Its cousin, calcium hydroxide (aka slaked lime), is used in tortilla-making during the process called 'nixtamalization'.  Dried corn kernels are soaked in a mixture of slaked lime and water, softening the kernels so that the hulls can be removed and used to make the masa for corn tortillas, tamales, etc. Slaked lime is available at Home Depot, and is used in making plaster, in hair-removal products like Nair (cue 'Who Wears Short Shorts' music now) and in petroleum refining. This could be an alternative to cal viva, but still, I thought I'd skip it.

Katie suggested another alternative, that of using 190-proof alcohol, known as Everclear here in the U.S., to give the squash the desired crunchy texture. She also posted a recipe, which in its wonderful Argentinean fashion, lacks measurements and very specific instructions.

Here's what we ended up doing:  We used Rum.  We didn't get that crunchy texture, but the results were nonetheless delicious. But the crunchy texture is kind of the point of this treat, so I'd still like to try a version using slaked lime and one using Everclear, just to see the difference. I'm on the case, then.  

For now, enjoy this homespun version of Zapallo en Almíbar.  Another little side note: We taste-tested two versions against eachother.  One was a jar of Zapallo en Almíbar we transported back from a roadside vendor in Bowen, and the other our homemade version.  The Bowen version was made by Marta Zacchigna de Molina, but the label provides no ingredient information, so I'm not sure of the type of squash she used, or whether she used cal viva or alcohol.  See the photos below.  I am amazed at the color difference, though I'm not sure the type of squash or the process used in the Bowense version.

Zapallo en Almíbar

Candied Squash

Serve with a tray of meats, cheeses and olives in the late afternoon as a snack, as part of a pre-dinner appetizer, or as a dessert course with fruit, nuts and cheeses.

3 cups firm squash, such as butternut (you can also use kabocha, acorn or hubbard)

600 ML (about 3 cups) light rum

1 teaspoon vanilla

4 cups water 

4 cups sugar

Peel and seed the squash.  Cut into medium-large cubes, about 1 1/2 inch in size.  In a medium bowl, combine the squash and the rum.  Let soak for 24 hours, stirring occasionally to make sure all the cubes are covered.

Drain the squash, discarding the rum (unless you want to make squashtinis, hee hee).  In a medium non-reactive stock pot, heat the water and the sugar over medium-high heat.  Stir frequntly, and when the sugar is completely dissolved, add in the squash and the vanilla.  Heat to a boil, and then reduce heat but maintain the mixture at a simmer until the squash becomes translucent, about an hour.

Remove the mixture from the heat and let cool completely.  Place the squash in a jar and cover with the syrup and a lid.  Refrigerate for up to 2 weeks, or alternatively, can for storage following the instructions with your canning kit.

Celebrating Día del Niño--Dulce de Leche Donuts

The second Sunday in August is a special day in Argentina--it's Día del Niño, or Children's Day.  (This year it was postponed for elections, and was on Sunday the 21st.)

Día del Niño is a day celebrating the fleeting and wonder-filled years of childhood.  I suppose adults on this day may reflect on their own fond memories of youth, but really the day is to celebrate the children in our lives--our own or even someone else's.  On this day of honoring children, kids get a small gift and are told 'Feliz Día!'--they feel important, special and loved just for being themselves!

Esteban woke up to balloons on his chair at breakfast, a little metal lunch box from the Cars 2 movie with a t-shirt inside, and these dulce de leche-filled donuts to eat.  A special boy on this special day deserves a treat for breakfast, don't you think?  (Although in all truth, Papí ate many more of these donuts than Esteban did!)  

These would be wonderful for breakfast not only Día del Niño, but on any day when a little celebration is in order--the first day of school, or a birthday, or to celebrate any kind of pint-sized accomplishment--the winning goal, memorizing that challenging piano piece, or making the grade.  

I adapted the recipe from one for filled donuts I found on my friend Jen's blog, Use Real Butter. Since we live near each other at high altitude I knew this recipe would be a good one for making at a mile high, and it worked out perfectly--thanks Jen!  They were delicious! 

The rest of the day was spent playing--something we all need to slow down and do--young or old.  Even if for a day, we got to celebrate our son and be kids again, ourselves.

 
Dulce de Leche-Filled Donuts

Donas Rellenas de  Dulce de Leche (Rosquillas Rellenas de Dulce de Leche)

 These donuts are wonderful served with coffee for grownups or warm milk for little ones.  They are best when fresh, but will last a day or so in an air-tight container--at least long enought to enjoy as a midnight snack!  They can also be filled with jelly, custard or frosting.

makes a baker's dozen

2 teaspoons active dry yeast

1/8 cup warm water (105 to 115 degrees Fahrenheit)

3/4 cup warm milk (scalded and then cooled) 

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 egg

heaping 1/4 cup shortening 

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 

cooking spray (or butter or vegetable oil, for greasing bowl)

vegetable oil (about 2 cups, for frying)

1 cup dulce de leche

confectioner's sugar, for dusting

 

In a small saucepan, heat the milk just until the boiling point and then remove from heat.  Let the milk cool to lukewarm. Rinse the metal bowl of your stand mixer with warm water (so that when you add in the warm water for the recipe, it doesn't cool the water down).  Add the 1/8 cup warm water to the mixer bowl and dissolve the yeast into the warm water.  Add in the milk, sugar, salt, egg, shortening and 1 cup of the  flour, and then beat on medium speed, scraping down the sides of the bowl as you go, for about 2 minutes. Stir in the remaining flour.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until a smooth dough forms, about two minutes.  Put the dough into a lightly oiled bowl, and let rise for about an hour, covered, in a warm place, until the dough has doubled in size.

Flour 2 baking sheets.  (Rub with butter or spray with cooking spray, dust with flour and discard the extra flour.) Turn the risen dough out onto a floured surface and roll it out to 1/2 inch thickness. Using a round cookie cutter or the rim of a sturdy juice glass, cut the dough.  Place the cut dough onto the cookie sheets, and repeat the process with the remaining dough.  Let the donuts rise on the floured cookie sheets, covered, until doubled in size, about a half hour or so.

Heat the oil in a fryer, dutch oven or frying pan (if using a frying pan, use about 3/4 cup to start) and prepare a plate lined with paper towels.  Heat the oil to about 350 degrees Fahrenheit.  Slide the donuts a few at a time (I did batches of 4) into the hot oil, and fry until golden on one side (about one minute) before turning over with a spatula.  Fry for about one minute more, and then carefully remove the donuts to the plate to drain.

Once the donuts are fried and cooled, fill a pastry bag with a wider tip with dulce de leche.  Make a small hole in each donut with a sharp, narrow knife, and then use the knife to make a cavity inside the donut to fill with dulce de leche.  Fill the cavity with the dulce de leche, and then dust with confectioner's sugar before serving.