From Argentina With Love

Linzer Torte (Pasta Frola) with Almonds--Pasta Frola con Almendras

Back in 2008, when this blog was a baby idea of sharing recipes from our life in the U.S. and Argentina, I wrote about Pasta Frola.  Many of the recipes I made came from my mother-in-law, Florencia's, kitchen as I settled into life as a newlywed.

Pasta Frola is a classic not-too-sweet dessert.  At my in-laws' house, it's always around, cut into small rectangles and neatly packed between layers of waxed paper in a tin; ready to be taken on the road for noshing alongside a late-day matecito, eaten for breakfast or even as a midnight snack.

While every family has their own adaptation, the classic version found in homes and bakeries in Argentina, Uruguay and Paraguay has a filling made from membrillo, or quince jelly, but it can also be made with sweet potato--dulce de batata, or even with dulce de leche.  Some dough recipes call for a little lemon zest, cinnamon, and Pasta Frola's famous cousin, Linzer Torte, calls for walnuts and plum or raspberry jam.  Written versions of Linzer Torte date from the 1650s, and somewhere along the centuries, what with all the cross pollinations and royal intermarrying of the day, the Linzer Torte likely found its way to Italy, where it was further adapted and dubbed Pasta Frolla.  The version enjoyed in Argentina today was no doubt another of the culinary treasures brought along from the old country, as immigrants settled into their new lives in a far-away land.

In my last post about the iconic pastry, I referenced the quote "La vida no es una Pasta Frola," immortalized by the artist known as Quino in his famed comic strip, Mafalda.  Loosely translated, it means "Life is not a piece of cake".  Truly, life is not easy for anyone--we all have our ups, our downs, and our in-betweens, where we just slog through, busy and tired.   Most of the time, many of us forget to be present.  We forget to enjoy life, appreciate what we have, and especially to take time to love and embrace the people around us in our families and community.

Another way of saying this comes from another quote: "Life is uncertain, eat dessert first!"  With all the slings and arrows life hurls at us every day, not to mention the unexpected life-changing things we all face at some point--it's so important to just pause.  Enjoy something and someone every day.  Let those you love know you love them.  And sit down and break bread together--share and foster culture and community.  Repeat. Make something simple and homemade--like this Pasta Frola.  Life may not be a piece of cake, but it certainly can be delicious!

Pasta Frola with Almonds--Pasta Frola con Almendras

I used almond flour alongside regular flour in this recipe.  While I used Bob's Mill brand, you can easily make your own almond flour by grinding blanched almonds in a clean coffee grinder or  food processor.  The advantage to this would be having a lovely, coarser texture to the nuts to give it a nuttier flavor.  You can also vary the type of nut to include hazelnut or walnut.  If quince jelly is not available, quince paste may be used--simply slice the paste thinly and lay it in a single layer across the bottom crust.

1 cup almond flour

1 1/3 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup sugar

1 egg yolk

about 1 1/2 cups Quince Jelly

 

In a medium bowl, combine the almond flour, flour, baking powder, and salt and whisk to combine.  In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment,  beat the butter and sugar together on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes.  Add the egg yolk and beat for one minute more. 

On low speed, add the flour mixture in all at once and beat until combined.  Divide the dough in half.  Press the first half of the dough into an even layer into a 9-inch tart ring or springform pan.  Press the edges up about 3/4 of an inch. Roll out the other half on a lightly floured baking sheet lined with parchment paper, into a 13-inch round.  Place both in the refrigerator and chill for 30 minutes. 

Spread the quince jelly evenly on the chilled dough in the tart ring.  Then, using a fluted pastry wheel (if you don't have one, use a knife--you won't have the zig-zag edges, but that's ok) cut the chilled round of dough into strips about 1-inch wide.  Arrange the strips across the round tart in a criss-cross (lattice) pattern.  Freeze for 30 minutes. 

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Bake for 40 minutes, rotating halfway through to brown the edges evenly.  Let cool completely before removing the tart ring, and serve in wedges.  The Pasta Frola can keep for three days covered in plastic wrap, but it probably won't last that long!

 

 

Tarta de Ricota--Ricotta Tart

  

I first discovered tarta de ricota at Dün Ken, one of our favorite bakeries in Mendoza.  Since then, I've been working on perfecting my own version at home, and I think I've just about got it down.  

Tarta de Ricota is just what it sounds like--a tart made from ricotta cheese.  It's the Italian cousin of our beloved cheesecake, only without the cream cheese tang.  Like so many recipes, the original has morphed into something unique--different but still delicious, developed by homesick Italian women missing the flavors of the old country.  But that old home fell away with the diaspora--a new home was being built in Argentina.

Argentina's version of the ricotta tart is delicately sweet and mild, smooth and creamy with just a hint of lemon.  (See the recipe notes for possible flavor variations.) It can be served any time of year, but is most often seen on the Easter table.  Ricotta, made from they whey used in cheese-making, was traditionally made in the spring, hence the springtime connection. (At least in the northern hemisphere.)

The origins of this simple pie are ancient--it's been made since pre-Christian times in Italy, during the reign of Constantine the Great. It's rumored that priestesses of Roman goddess Ceres, goddess of fertility and motherhood, mixed ricotta with eggs to celebrate Spring. Swedes enjoy a treat called Ostkaka, an almond-y egg and cheese cake--perhaps a recipe exchange during the time of the Visgoth invasion?  Nuns in a convent in Naples infused their springtime version of ricotta pie with orange blossoms from their garden, and the recipe was later adapted by local bakeries.

From pagan offering to a convent confection symbolizing the Resurrection, from the Easter tables of Naples' rich and famous to modern-day bakeries on the other side of the planet, Tarta de Ricota has had quite a journey, wouldn't you say? Take a bite of history when you make this pie, which is sure to become a tradition of your own!

You may also enjoy Ricotta Pie recipes from Cooking Lessons (a wonderful step-by-step tutorial), Serious Eats, and Foodblogga

 

Tarta de Ricota

 Ricotta Tart 

This is a basic recipe for ricotta tart that can easily be adapted.  It can be flavored with rum or another liqueur, like Grand Marnier, or you can stir in 1/2 cup of golden raisins or golden raisins soaked in liqueur--especially delicious during the holiday season. There are also versions that include finely chopped preserved peaches in syrup, and it would be simple to swap out the lemon zest and juice for orange, or the vanilla for almond extract.  That version would be delicious covered in confectioner's sugar and sliced almonds for a fancy afternoon tea. I've chosen a traditional short-pastry type crust here, the shortbread-style crunch adds a nice texture to the pie.

For the tart shell:

1 1/2 cups flour

1/4 cup sugar

pinch of salt (or more to taste)

1/2 teaspoon lemon zest

1 stick unsalted butter

1 egg, separated

2 tablespoons milk

1 teaspoon vanilla

 Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.  Generously butter and flour a tart pan with a removeable bottom.  

In a food processor, combine the flour, sugar, salt, lemon zest, and butter and process until well combined and the mix resembles a coarse sand.  Add in the egg yolk, reserving the white.  Add in the vanilla and the milk, and process until combined and there is a coarse dough.  To make the dough by hand, combine the ingredients as described below using a hand-held pastry blender.

Dump the dough into the prepared pan, and using your fingers, press around the edges and bottom of the pan.  Then using the bottom of a cup, press the bottom into an even layer.  Bake for 15 minutes. Remove, and then brush with the reserved egg white.  Return to the oven for another 15 minutes.  

Meanwhile, prepare the filling.

For the filling:

1 1/2 cups fresh whole milk ricotta cheese

1/2 cup sugar

1 egg

1 tablespoon rum

1/2 teaspooon vanilla

1/4 cup heavy whipping cream

1 tablespoon lemon juice

zest from 1 lemon

confectioner's sugar, as needed, to decorate the top

In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients and using a hand-held mixer, blend at medium speed until smooth.

Remove the crust from the oven.  Pour the ricotta mixture into the tart pan until 2/3 of the way full, and then carefully place in the oven.  Bake for  45-60 minutes, or until the center is set and the filling is light golden, but not brown.

Let cool completely, then refrigerate until cold. Sift confectioner's sugar over the top, using a stencil design if desired.

Transfer to a cake plate and serve, cut in wedges.

 

5 Make-Ahead (and Freeze) Argentinean Favorites

So many of my favorite Argentinean recipes, however delicious, can be rather...time and labor intensive.  Meaning, there is no way they are making it to the dinner table on a weeknight if I'm making it that same day from scratch.  However, making a double batch of something on a weekend and freezing half makes eating our favorites possible, anytime. A little planning makes pulling something from the freezer a great way to eat something delicious and homemade, even on the nights when you can't cook. Below, some of our favorite dishes that are freeze-friendly (any how to freeze them).

Ñoquis del 29; A Family Tradition--Una Tradicion Familiar

Recently, I read an article entitled 'Helpful Hints for Successful Parenting'. Among the suggestions: "Share the things you love with your children...Teach him that his environment is filled with things that have meaning to you.  As he grows, give him a part in family traditions."

I think this happens naturally, in some ways, as we go about our daily routine. But sometimes, it takes a little effort.  Guillermo and I try to give importance to honoring both our cultures, and especially remembering Argentina's special traditions.  We want our kids to be proud of both sides of their heritage.  But honestly, sometimes it feels like a huge effort even to get dinner on the table. With a new little one in the mix, we are busier than ever.  There's always someplace to be and an excuse to skip the special stuff.

This post was supposed to be part of a group post on the wonderful tradition of eating gnocchi in Argentina on the 29th of every month.  To be posted yesterday.  Alas, spread thin as I am, I was ready to pitch the whole thing and order a pizza.  But I also felt obligated to participate, so I started making the gnocchi.  

The group that made regional alfajores was about to tackle another ubiquitous Argentinean dish.  And post all the lucious photos to Flickr.  Alas, again.  Five pm, lousy kitchen lighting and 70s goldenrod countertop--with one adorable kid rolling out gnocchi.  It may not be food-photography worthy, but it's my life right now.

Right away I had my 'sous chef' jump in, insisting, this time, in his ever-growing desire for independence, that he cut the gnocchi and also be allowed to drop them into the boiling water. Carefully supervised, he got to do both.  But as I felt the deadline of this group blog event looming, I tried to shoo him to the table to eat.  Newly five, he is small but mighty and he refused.  

I mean, he REALLY wanted to make the gnocchi, and took great pleasure in rolling them out.  So I gave up.  I knew this was a battle I could stand to lose, so I let go of my stress, my need to control the situation and 'get it done'--and enjoyed the moment so much more.  I let myself have fun--something I've been a little short on lately. It was a great lesson in being present, in going with the flow, and also in realizing that we have done something to carry on traditions that are important to us.  Maybe he doesn't quite understand the meaning behind 'gnocchi day' yet, but he will, in time.

Finally, as the gnocchi were on plates, I found myself upstairs at the changing table instead of the dinner table.  I overheard something that made my heart melt. Esteban, said, "Aren't these gnocchi the best things in the WORLD?"   And to him, with his ownership of making dinner, they absolutely were.  And they really were!

Photos: Top--Esteban rolling the gnocchi at age five.  Center--In Argentina with 'Bula' making gnocchi at age four.  Bottom two--first gnocchi, at around fifteen months, and rolling them out, in 2008.

 

 

The other ladies that joined this group blog post made some sumptuous gnocchi indeed.  Many talked about the reason behind the tradition of serving gnocchi on this day. And so around the world, the gnocchi day tradition is being carried on, in all its delectable forms:

Aledys of From Argentina to the Netherlands for Love posted Gnocchi a la Romana

Katie of Seashells and Sunflowers posted Butternut Squash Gnocchi with Walnut Cream Sauce

Ana of Ana Travels posted Arugula Gnocchi with Tomato and Tarragon Vinagrette

Paula of Bee My Chef posted Spinach Gnocchi

Meag of A Domestic Disturbance posted Roasted Beet Malfatti with Creamy Roquefort Sauce

and Mine, which of course is Plain Old Potato Gnocchi, Prepared by a Five Year Old

But seriously,wouldn't you love to sit down to dinner at their tables?  

Without further ado, though, here is a tried and true recipe for a simple, traditional potato gnocchi. Even the kids like it.

Receta de Ñoquis del 29

Recipe for 29th-of-the-month Gnocchi

2 lbs. baking potatoes (about 6)

salt

2 eggs

1 cup fresh, good quality ricotta cheese

2-3 cups flour, plus more for dusting

Peel and quarter the potatoes, putting them in a medium stock pot with enough water to cover the potatoes with one inch of water. Add a scant handful of salt. Put the potatoes to boil until they are tender when pierced with a fork , but not mushy. Drain the potatoes.

Put the potatoes through a food mill or potato ricer. In a large bowl, combine the potatoes, eggs, and ricotta, and mix well using your hands or a fork until a consistent dough is formed. Be careful not to overmix.

Add the flour a half cup at a time, mixing each time by hand until there is a soft, pliable dough. The dough should not be sticky, and it should not be hard. If it's too sticky or soft, the gnocchi will be mushy, but if there's too much flour, the gnocchi will be chewy and tough. (This is the challenging part!)

Knead the dough a few times until uniform, and divide the dough in half . Flour a work area, and roll the dough out into a long thin roll about 3/4 inch thick. Cut these tubes of dough into sections about 1 inch long. Meanwhile, bring a stock pot of water to a boil.

There are a variety of ways to 'mark' the gnocchi-all just a style choice, since at this point, they are more or less done. Here are some suggestions: Mark an indentation in the center of each gnocchi with your index finger; or roll over the side of a cheese grater to make patterned indentations; or roll over the backside of a fork, or roll over the center of a wooden gnocchi tool.

At this point, the gnocchi can be frozen laid out on a baking sheet lined with wax paper. After they are frozen, they can be stored in a freezer bag. Frozen gnocchi are just put into the boiling water like the unfrozen ones.

Drop the gnocchi one at a time into the boiling water. They are cooked when they rise to the top. Collect with a slotted spoon and transfer to a plate. Serve with the sauce of your choice. (Some nice choices are walnut Gorgonzola, tomato or white sauce.)

 

 

Heart-shaped Alfajores for Valentine's Day--Alfajores en forma de Corazon por el Dia de San Valentin

Valentine's Day--you can love it or hate it.  We've all gone through Valentine's Days alone or heart-broken, Valentine's Day days head-over-heels, Valentine's Days spent with girlfriends on the couch watching a weeper or out to dinner ignoring the holiday.  Even earlier, most of us suffered the unforgettable heady yet awkward exchange of Valentines in class. (The one when you're hoping that your crush returns your feelings as you slip your Strawberry Shortcake/StarWars card into the paper bag decorated in class).

In our household, Valentine's Day is always a mixed bag.  One year it was celebrated with a heart-shaped diamond necklace (before marriage and kids), the next it was forgotten altogether.  It's been quasi-celebrated with a quick dinner out while leaving the (then) baby with a sitter, and spent apart while one of us was on a business trip.  And it has also been celebrated with kids--not an over-done, romantic dinner, mind you, but a fun, family celebration, demonstrating as we do in a thousand small ways daily, our love for each other.  We light candles and use little Valentine's napkins, and eat these for dessert.  Esteban loves any occasion to celebrate!

This heart-shaped alfajor is just perfect for that type of casual dinner, whether your sweetheart is 4 or 40 (or 4 months old, as it were).  

I made these to share this weekend with friends for dinner (actually, in a romantic and uncharacteristic moment, the men did the assembly.  It was made with a jar of homemade dulce de leche from our hosts, another American/Argentinean couple, the van Halls.) Esteban's pre-school teachers are also getting a couple, in a decorative bag tied with a red bow.  

So whether you are celebrating the day of 'Amor y Amistad' in grand style, or at home with the family, we wish you the best the day can bring!

Alfajores

This recipe for alfajores is adapted from the book, Argentina Cooks! by Shirley Lomax Brooks

1 3/4 cups flour

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup sugar

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 pound butter (1 stick) at room temperature

1 teaspoon lemon zest (optional)

4 egg yolks, lightly beaten

1 egg, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 recipe for dulce de leche (or one jar of it)

1 cup grated and sweetened coconut (optional)

Combine flour, salt, sugar and baking soda in a bowl. Cut the butter in with two knives, then mix by hand until well incorporated. Work in the lemon zest and then mix in the egg yolks, egg and vanilla. (Alternatively, you can do this in a food processor, fitted with the dough blade.) The dough will be soft and slightly sticky.  Shape the dough into 2 balls, wrap in plastic, and chill for 2 hours. 

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. On a floured work surface, roll out each ball of dough to a thickness of 1/4 inch.  ( I used lots of extra flour to get the dough to be pliable, not too sticky, and easy to cut.) Cut into 2-inch rounds (or use a heart-shaped cutter) and transfer to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake for 12-15 minutes or until done. The cookies will be dry but not brown. 

When the cookies are cool, spread a generous spoonful of dulce de leche in one cookie and top it with another. Press together gently and smooth any squished-out dulce de leche with a pastry knife, or add a bit of extra so the  coconut will have a good smooth surface to adhere to. Roll the seam of each sandwiched cookie in shredded coconut. (I used Bob's Red Mill shredded unsweetened coconut, purchased from Whole Foods.)